View Full Version : Etching and HT


Jeremy Krammes
08-15-2004, 07:51 AM
I am working a damascus folder. I got the blade back from heat treat, and when I etched it the blade had great black and gray contrast. When I etched the bolsters they came out in shades of gray. I used the same solution, at the same time. Is this because the blade was heat treated? If so can I get the bolsters to look the same, all I have is a propane torch to heat them. The spine is also damascus so I would have to do it to that too. Roger Linger did the HT for me, and he offered to do the bolters. Would this be my best bet?

BTW the damascus is Thunderforged, 1095, and 01.

Thanks
Jeremy

Greg Covington
08-15-2004, 04:57 PM
I used some Thunderforged for guard and it does not look as well when it is not heat treated and etched.


Your best option is to have the bolsters HT'ed and they should look the same.

sjaqua
08-16-2004, 04:02 PM
In general, heat treating improves the depth of color of carbon steals. In short this means if your pattern is dependant on differences in carbon content (such as with welded cable) or you want very dark carbon steal layers (such as in a 1095/nickel mix), heat treat your steal befor you etch.

This really made an impression on folks when I was doing a welded cable spoon at a demo. They were very surprised when I heat treated a spoon :)

But it was all about inproving the contast of my pattern (even more so in the case of a low contrast pattern like cable)

This can work to your advantage in a very striking way. Just quench your edge, or clay harden your blade or draw back the spine (anything to produce a hamon line) in a pattern welded blade. Then etch it. You now have added a whole new depth to your pattern.