I have an oxy-Mapp torch and i was wondering if it could be feasibly used to make wire damascus out of say 3/4 steel cable. Im not thinking that it is possible, but i want to know before buying the cable because its fairly expensive.

I know of several people doing this, but you need to have some sort of shell to contain the heat. Look here for examples... http://forgegallery.elliscustomknifeworks.com/

Something like a "one-brick" forge with that oxy-mapp torch and I'm sure you could make some welded cable.

What kind of cable is it? You want a heavy lifting cable, like crane or elevator cable to get a good carbon content for knife making. I think the cable grade, if you are buying new, is called "extra improved plowshare"

Thanks for the advice! I always thought for some reason that a one brick forge was kind of unnecessary or just a useful holding device, but i guess that if thats going to work then ill try it! Just wondering... would household borax such as 20 Mule Team be a usable flux? Or would i have to go with anhydrous borax? Kinda new to the subject.



Thanks a bunch,
Jon

just a useful holding device

Basically it is just a holding device, except it's not for holding the knife, it's for holding the heat in. If you don't have soft firebricks, a can with kaowool lining it works too.

whats the easiest place to get kaowool?

You need the brick for its refractory linning. Even a propane torch puts out enough BTU's, so long as you contain them with an efficiant refactory material.

As for flux, Household Borax will work, but it will foam up and make a mess (flux mess is very bad for the refactory lining) You can however make you own anhydrous borax. Melt the 20 mule team on high heat in a pot you don't mind ruining. Pure it on a clean metal plate and allow it to cool. The break-up and then powder the solid borax mass.

Use as little borax flux as you can and still get a good weld. Enough flux will look like a honey glaze on your steel. Get a light glaze on your steel that's is thin enough not to drip and you are in buisness. But some is always going to drip. You will want a sacraficial floor that you can toss out to protect your forge lining. In a one brick forge, some thin stainless steel angle iron would work. The angle would catch the flux and save your floor.

Listen, go out and find a copy of "The $50 Knife Shop". It has a great description of the one-brick forge.

Then, order a few bricks from Mr. Ellis. (Who, by the way, has got to be one of the finest people you will ever deal with.) One brick is for the forge, a couple others are good for support.

You can heat up a one-brick forge with a plain propane torch hot enough to forge steel. With MAPP/oxygen, you'll have to watch the heat.

I believe Mr. Ellis also has Kaowool if you prefered that style I got mine from anvilfire.

Hi Cold Steel Cult!
You can weld cable very well in a hole in the ground with some coal and a hair dryer, something to use as a poker, a coffee can of water some borax for flux, and you're ready to go. There are many areas for instructions on building coal and propane forges around here also. I can elaborate if you are interested. Many many ways to do this, but I think the best advice is to try to work with someone who is experienced in doing it. Make some with them, in their shop, and you will have a better idea what it will take in your shop to accomplish the same result. Speaking of coffee cans, they make a nice little forge with some kaowool and satanite.

Darren Ellis's site is http://www.elliscustomknifeworks.com/.

I spent a LOT of time and money on things I didn't have to when I got started. I am close to Chattanooga Tenn. and would be happy to help if you are in this area. You can pick up a copy of Knives 2004, and find a knifemaker in your area also, or try to get to a hammer in.
Just my .02 :)