Made this for a gorgeous Al Pendray wootz damascus bowie. I know the pic stinks, I am awaiting delivery of my first digital camera this week. I found I really like this style and it actually does work for a big knife if you want to carry it concealed.
http://www.internetbusinesslinks.net/album/lifter/Pendray2.JPG

Dave -- I know this is the Sheath Gallery, but you cannot, just cannot, post a tease with a Pendray wootz, and then leave us without a pic of the knife :eek:
Okay, I'll buy the "waitin' on a digi camera" excuse for now, but when you get that new marvel of technology ....
Seriously, I know the Pendray damascus patterns tend to be very fine and hard to photograph, but PLEEEEEZE try :D
Mike

PS: Sorry 'bout that -- good looking sheath too :)

Mike,
sorry about that. It's already back at it's owner.
But man, it was sweet!:D

Well, guess I started this -- this is one I saw a few years ago in the Gallery (I think). Luckily I saved a copy. Looks deep enough to swim in
S'pose you can get your friend to post a pic of his?
PLEEEEEZE :)
Mike
http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/bin/ft.dll/standard?pictid={3EC3AF71-03A6-4C4E-B09B-5B6F07CE92E0}

Hey Dave-
Looking good!

Got a couple of questions:
1) are you covering the inside of the stud where it touches the blade? If not I recommend you do and there are a couple of tricks so let me know and I'l post them

2) Are you going to make a frog to go with it? If you want I've got a nice design that looks and works great.

I'm game Chuck. Lets learn something new.

OK Steve here goes:
---Tip one - covering rivet backs
There are two ways I do this depending on the rivet back type.
NOTE 1: the following methods are only good for 5/6 oz or thicker vegtan - any thinner and you will have strength concerns.
If the rivet back is quite thin with a taper to the stem (ie Jiffy Rivets, etc.) I punch the rivet hole and then with an Exacto or a razor knife I place the tip of the blade in the rivet hole and hold it at about a 30 deg angle. Spin the leather around the blade and trim a away a chamfer of leather at least as big as the head of the rivet back. I make it about 5/8" in diameter. I then take a 5/8" round punch and cut a divot of 2/3 oz vegtan. Feather all the way around the edge of the divot/patch on the FLESH side. Next set your rivet and if done tight the back will be slightly countersunk. With a small brush carefully apply contact cement to the chamfer/rivet back and the flesh side of the patch. Line the patch up and set it in place pressing firmly for good adhesion. ( I have a piece of steel with a series of holes drilled into it that are the right size to take the head of the rivets,studs etc. I lay the piece on after gluing the patch on and then lightly tap around the edges for the best adhesion. Let the glue set for at least 4 hours and over night is even better. Finally, using my Dremel with a 120grit drum, I carefully blend the edges only of the patch into the sheath body. You want to leave as much of the "skin" side of the patch as possible while still getting a good blend - the skin side is where the strength is. Once this is done apply your dye and seal as normal.
For rivet backs that are thicker such as on Sam Brown studs, I use a 5/8" woodworker's spade bit to make the countersink - I ground the pilot tip down to fit standard size rivet holes. Step one is to punch the center hole and then spin the spade bit (I do it by hand with the center point in the center hole. Cut just deep enough and a hair more in order to get the rivet back countersunk just below the surface.
NOTE 2: The countersink should never be more than 1/3 the thickness of the leather in order to retain the strength.
Make a divot/patch like above and follow the same procedure. If you dampen the leather lightly first with either method you will normally get a cleaner countersink. Just make sure the leather is completely dry before gluing the patch on.
Now the patch is going to leave a little "bump" but I find this bump to aid in retention and "sell" it to my customers with that in mind.

--- Frogs:
Well I realized that I didn't take a picture of the last sheath I did with one of these where the stud is mounted to the sheath body, but I do have several photos that show several variations and are self explanatory. The style I used was the last picture without the upper retaining strap although I used a center back seam rather than the two side seams as shown below. If need be I'll cobble up a quick one and take a photo to show the difference.
NOTE 1: I normally make the "body" of the frog and the retaining straps from 5/6 oz and the belt loop portion from 8/9 oz.
NOTE 2: I have come to prefer making my own studs. In my experience the ball end of the standard Sam Brown stud tends to not hold over time as the leather stretches and then slips off the ball. To make my own I take a solid brass Chicago screw and chuck the female end into my drill. Turn the drill on and with a file file I file the edge of the head down to about half of it's normal diameter leaving a nice flat back head that is not too large to fit through the hole/slot of the frog. To mount it on the leather I then take a small brass washer and place it at the base of the female end. This prevents the female end from pulling through the leather as you screw it down. Put a small dab of red Loctite on the male end and screw the two sides together. I partially countersink the male side and then after mounting I take my handy dandy Dremel and grind the head down until flush with the leather (normally I grind it down until the slot disappears). Add your patch as above and you wind up having one very skookum button that will hold better that the standard Sam Brown stud.
Enough of that - here are the pictures. If you have any questions after looking these over ask away.
http://wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/frogs/frogs1.jpg
http://wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/frogs/frogs2.jpg
http://wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/frogs/frogs3.jpg

Dave, my friend---the tutorial given by Chuck on countersinking the rivet or metal on the inside of the sheath is so factual and precise that I found it difficult to make and addenda--- but-- it is a fact that the cement is much stronger in bonding strength if a second light application is made after the intial coat has dried. The leather will tear before the joint will part. The Sam Browne stud that you have used is the smaller of the two studs used on the older issues of that famous military belt. The older belts
which are seldom seen today, had two "D" rings attached to the belt that provided attachment for the strap that went over the wearer's shoulder and provided additional support for either a sidearm or saber. This crossover strap was secured by a stud much more robust than that used on the belt itself. The belt stud merely kept the buckle from backing off the Sam Brown hook which attached to what normally would be the buckle end of the belt. On Sam Browne belts the buckle remained on the adjustment end of the belt and was only repositioned as the wearer became more robust--- The larger stud and washer (if you can find them) would be far better for use with the frog. Sandy

Sandy -
re: gluing procedure.
I've said the same thing many times - apply two, or more, THIN coats of cement rather than one thick coat. The object is to get the coated fibers to glue to each other and not just the film of glue. To know when it's "right" I hold it up the light when dry yet tacky to see if the glue area has that gloss to it - if it doesn't apply more glue - a dull spot means there is not enough glue.

The only place I know of that has larger than normal studs is Weaver Leather - they carry several sizes in brass with screw backs. My homemade ones work great and I only use the commercial ones when specifically asked to.

I sent an email thru the forums to you but will repeat here--I am going to send you a few of the studs I mentioned-- The next time I am in Durango save me a cold one (or two)---Sandy

Sandy - I got your email and thank you very much - having some of the "Real McCoy" will be a real treat.
As for saving the cold ones - since I can't drink you can have my share:D

Chuck, I am fully aware that your doctor (for medical reasons) has restricted you from the joys of imbibing the "occasional" cold one--- What the 'ell--- I had not intended to share with you any how! I have two favorite body positions in this tenous life, vertical and horizontal. Cut me off when I become horizontal! As I was searching for those oversize studs I stumbled on a cache of old solid brass Sam Browne buckles issued to the Indian Army by the British prior to WWII. They are not the flat cast buckle type of U.S. make, but the round bar type of the original style. They would go great with your period style product and they are authentic, and I believe some of the screw on hooks are with the buckles. All of the old "D" rings are gone on sheaths long since made, sold, and forgotten. I will not trouble you with my position in life after expected libations in return for this exportation of my old junk. I am sure Linda would do an excellent job in determining whether I was still vertical (more or less!) Sandy

Sandy -
You're going to make me cry! and I look terrible with red eyes.

I will gladly accept your gracious gift and I will do them proud. Always wanted to make WWI style British rig so...

Linda of course does not have the same inhibitions as I - so she may not be the best to judge at whay point you will have become horizontal. When I read this to her she said you bet - she's more the "let's open another bottle of wine" type. :smokin

Have a good cry, Chuck, but furnish your own handkerchief! Linda, I will even furnish the corkscrew and glasses--- Sandy

Talk about ask and ye shall recieve! Thanks.:D

Steve you are welcome - any questions ask away.

WOW! :eek:
I guess the notify feature isnt working.

Thank you Chuck and Sandy! This info is a goldmine.
On this particular sheath since the leather was pretty thick,8/9oz. I had just recessed the back of the stud, like Chuck described but without the leather covering. I tried it a bunch of times and made sure the blade wouldnt touch it but next time I am definitely using Chuck's method.

Dave- as you noted when countersunk properly the patch isn't really necessary, but it does set the customers mind at ease and it adds that little "extra" that impresses the heck out of some folks - and that is what it is all about - at least when selling to customers.
On the other hand it's also one of those "extras" that separates the men from the boys so to speak :D

Dave -- I agree the inner cover is a good idea, no matter how well it's countersunk. Knives, sheaths, human bodies all get to interacting in strange ways in actual use, and what seems to be out of the way when sliding a blade in and out in the shop, may be something entirely diffferent in the field.
Of course I don't know many guys who wield a Pendray in the field, but you never know :D
Tyhe other option that wasn't mentioned would be to attach the button to an overlay and sew that on the face of the sheath. I see that done with line snaps, should work with a Sam Browne stud if glued and sewn well (no, haven't tried it myself)
Mike