View Full Version : mosaic pin tutorial


SVanderkolff
05-21-2003, 12:23 PM
Did there not used to be a tutorial on making mosaic pins? I was sure I had seen one.The reason I was asking was, "Can I mix the devcon 2 ton 24 hour cure epoxy with acetone or varsol to thin it enough to more easily get sucked up the 1/8 tubes that I am using for my mosaic pins?"
Thanks
Steve

Jamey Saunders
05-21-2003, 12:32 PM
Yeah, there did used to be a tutorial, but it seems to have slipped into the nether-regions of the internet.

Best I can remember, the tutorial said that you could thin the epoxy a little, but the more you thinned it, the longer it took to harden. It was recommended to thin just slightly. I would think that thinning the epoxy might also alter the color of the epoxy you're using.

[EDIT] Oh, and use about a foot of clear tubing attached to your pin to suck the epoxy up with so you don't wind up with a mouthful of epoxy! http://smilies.jeeptalk.org/contrib/icw/010.gif

Alain M-D
05-21-2003, 04:06 PM
Hello steve!
I have make some test to make my mosa?c pines...
It is possible to thin the expoxy with acetone, but it seems that
affects hardening (the expoxy become more rubbering)

The best trick than I found is to heat my epoxy with air dryer
or with a hot air gun, thus the expoxy becomes very thin and liquid...
But it dries more quickly...

I used a large syringe with clear tubing attached to my pin...
I put a vacuum with my seringue and soon as the epoxy appears
in the clear tube, I block it with a visegrip, I block the other end of
my pin with modelling clays and I cut the clear tube. Two or three
feet of clear tubing lasts me a long time... ?

By hoping that can help you!

Alain M-D

Jette Bybjerg
05-22-2003, 04:49 AM
Bob Engnath has got a tutorial on making mosaic pins. Maybe it'll help:

http://www.engnath.com/public/manframe.htm (and "mosaic" in the menu to the left).

Jette Bybjerg

whv
05-22-2003, 06:45 PM
per the koval catalogue, pull the center stuff out ~ 1/2 way from the outer tube, coat it all with epoxy and push it back into the tube. keep pushing everything out the other end of the tube, coat again and push it back in. works for me.

Shannon Hooge
05-31-2003, 11:18 PM
Hi,
You might want to get away from the standard squirt epoxies and buy the type that is typically used for marine fiberglass work. Most epoxies that hardware stores and knife supply stores sell have filler in them that keep them from running off what you are gluing. Straight epoxies are quite thin and should pose no problems for what you are doing with mosaic pins. I'm not sure you really need 2 ton epoxy for this application, as the surface coverage will certainly allow it to hold.

Shannon

Bob Warner
06-01-2003, 07:54 AM
If you mix your epoxy and add a drop of oil based paint to color it, the paint will also thin it. I use the little square bolltled paint for painting model cars. The epoxy still sets up great and has good colors.

Florian P.
08-09-2003, 03:30 PM
I recently discovered this tutorial:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/mosaic.html

aiiifish
08-10-2003, 08:59 AM
I got a 60cc syringe from work and some flexable tubing from the hardware. I use the 2 ton and the vac from the syringe draws it all the way through in about 45-60 sec with out thining.

(Steve if you need one I have an extra)

Jan Dox
08-11-2003, 03:18 PM
Some makers have used industrial superglue (cyano-acrylate)with good results.


Jan