As some of you know, I'm getting kind of old. That said, my memory isn't as good as it was 20 years ago. :confused:

It's been years since I used stag on a handle. I'm using my last piece of stag on a large straight knife.

I can't remember what to use to seal the stag after finishing the knife. It seems to me that I've used superglue or simply buffed-in paste wax on stag in the past.

What do you young'uns use or recommend? Is it acceptabe to just polish it on a buffing wheel with paste wax?

Don Cowles, old friend, what do you say?

By the way, I've changed my email address and web page URL. I'll see if I can figure out how to update my profile.

Here's the new email address: drobinson@rgv.rr.com

Custom Made Knives & Jewelry
by Don Robinson
http://home.rgv.rr.com/donrob

Hi, Don-

I don't use a lot of stag, but when I use it, I just give it a very light buffing followed with a coat of Renaissance wax. Fact is, both the buffing and the wax only touch the high points if the stag has any texture to it. Have found no need for sealing at all in my experience.

Good to see you around!

I would like to know how some makers get that deep red to brown finish on the stag. I remember the blade magazine doing an article on it, but can't find it.

Most such coloring is done with assorted dyes or potassium permanganate.

I love to use it but can't say I know all about it...

I personally think it pays to use good stag - meaning a piece that is dense and with a thick outer cortex. The inner core is crumbly and would not hold a tang securely for too long unless either it is removed and replaced with something that is tougher - like 2-tonne epoxy, or the core is stabilised.

I only ever internally stabilise my antler handles - I put in (read-pour in) the thinnest superglue I can find and let it set for up to a couple of days. Then I slot the inside for the tang. The superglue is pretty darn tough stuff when fully set. I never seem to need to finish the outside. Dense antler polishes beautifully to a mirror shine provided you don't grind down to the inner core structure which LOOKS very porous even when filled / stablised.

Naturally coloured antler from a deer that has had a healthy (and long) life and complete diet will give that rich dark brown colour. Potassium permanganate will do some nice coloration and so will anumber of other wood and leather dyes. The trick is getting the colour combination and the penetration depth just right, so there's a bit of individual "black magic" that everyone uses.

Once fully finished and polished, I like to rub in Danish oil - it seems to give the antler a very subtle tea-stained or mellow colour that has an antiqued look and probably seals any areas that have small holes or cracks.

Sorry for the long post, but I hope that makes sense. Jason.

My thanks to Don and Jason for the timely information. I even found a bottle of leather die left over from when I used to make leather sheaths. Thank the lord for Kydex!:p

The stag is two pieces of scale material. Hard to come by today.

what do you do about the pourous ends of the anter if they
happen to show at the butt of the knife handle or perhaps underneath where their may be some of the blood sponge left in the antler's center channe... YES..YOU ARE CORRECT.. IT IS SUPERGLUE.. apply it before final polish..let it harden.. buff n polish as normal... it will totally seal the pourous antler part that
shows...

>I would like to know how some makers get that deep red to brown finish on the stag.

thats an easy one.. they lightly burn it with their propane torch
and then light sanding of the high points and ends.. its an artistic touch you have to work at... the red is many times a dye...