I was wondering what to look for in a good quality knife and where a good place to buy knives is. (on-line or off-line) I live in arizona and have always bee interested in knife collecting but just haven't done that much research.... Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Tom

pub42.ezboard.com/fcustom...D=94.topic (http://pub42.ezboard.com/fcustomknifedirectoryforumfrm15.showMessage?topicI D=94.topic)

start here :)

Tom,

Here's a good place to start looking:
www.customknifedirectory.com (http://www.customknifedirectory.com)

There's over 300 knives listed "direct from owner".

Welcome to the CKD.

Alex

Welcome to the forums! What to look for in a good custom knife? For starters, you want to check the fit and finish of the handle scales to the bolsters, and both of these to the liners. I do as much looking with my fingers as I do my eyes. Run your fingers over the perimeter of the handle, checking for smooth finish of the back spacer (if it has one). You will be able to detect any rough/uneven spots by feel alone. The fit and finish should be tight and precise. It's the little things that make a good custom knife a great custom knife, and fit/finish IMHO should be a big issue when buying a knife.

If the knife is a folder, you want to check for blade play in the opened knife. Carefully grab the blade with one hand, and holding the handle with the other, try to wiggle the blade sideways and pay attention to the amount of play, if any, in the lockup. If there is play, it could mean that the knife was played with by other (assuming you are at a show) and can be easily adjusted via the pivot screw. Also check for up-and-down play in the lockup. If there is up and down play, the lock isn't engaging tight enough.

Grind lines on the blade - again, like fit/finish, this is a crucial area for me. Inspect the "shoulders" of the blade to see if the grinds are even (they match up). If the knife has a false edge or swedge, check that too.

Sharpness - I lightly feel the cutting edge with my thumb to see how it grabs. If I can feel it grab under light pressure, then it is very sharp. However, I don't recommend this technique for obvious reasons. It's just that I've done this for many years and know how much pressure I need to determine sharpness.

For fixed blades, I always ask to see the sheath. Inspect the sheath like you do the knife - tight fit and finish of the parts. Put the knife in the sheath and feel how easily it slides in and out. When the knife is in the sheath check to see how secure the sheath "grabs" the knife. It should "grab" the knife yet remain easy to withdraw. But not too loose in the event the sheath is inverted and the knife falls out on its own.

In a nutshell, that's what I'd look for in a good custom knife.. Hope this info helps!

Men,

What Dexter said is pretty much it in a nutshell. Of course, each knife you look at has it's own character traits, but if you follow his rundown when doing the inspection, you'll have done a very complete inspection of the major points you need to consider.

Are there any other techniques you recommend for the more advanced collector to consider? Anyone?

Alex

Alex - another thing I didn't mention in my post above that for myself, is very important as the knife itself. It is my perception of the maker and my rapport with him. Fortunately for us, we are in an industry that is very tight and close knit, a family atmosphere. There are a LOT of great makers out there who are equally great people. Bottom line - if a certain maker makes great knives and he is a total a**hole when it comes to "people skills", I will mark his knife off my list.

Dexter.
When I was collecting, having a rapport with the maker was extremely important to me. I could tell the difference between someone who was just quiet and reserved and someone who had a chip on his shoulder for whatever reason. It is an entire process for me and the maker is just as important as the knife. There are actually guys out there with the attitude of "buy a knife or get the hell away from my table".

As a maker, I see people that are interested in the knife and that is it. Others like to talk, email, ask questions, and carry on a relationship long after the sale. Either way is fine for me because I am always accessible. I enjoy looking at the makers who have been around and seeing their long term customers who have been buying knives from them for 10-20 years and who are close enough to contribute to design and who have worked the knives for all they are worth. I look forward to those kind of relationships in the future.

The same principles have applied to web design. Everyone I have built a site for is not just a client, but a friend. There is a rewaed there that goes way beyond money.

Dexter covered the mechanics. I might add that a good technique is to close you eyes and try to see if you can feel material transions (bolster to handle material, inlay to handle material etc.)

Dexter and Bob have hit upon something very important to me when I choose a knife. One of the greatest things about this hobby are the friendships that have developed with makers whose knives I own and don't own :) .