Guys ...

Here's the first public look at the new DDR3 kit design. This is only 1 of 4 different design models we'll have in this handle style. The others will have blade/bolster changes and will allow you to "truly" configure your DDR3 model to your own personal preferences.

I placed the DDR1 in the background of one of the shots to show you a side-by-side on the differences this model will offer in the overall design. This is a complete generation advance in the look, fit and feel of our medium sized folder line, something you'll be proud to know we listen to your feedback on and incorporated in our new products we're bringing you. This is a truly modernized folder design and will stand up against any LL folder on the market today in both style and finish options. It will be harder to complete, but the result will be worth the time.

We're promising a delivery date of Aug-Sept. If you'll be at the Blade Show this year, stop by our booth and look at the protos of this series and you can get a first hand feel for the knives themselves. We won't open pre-orders on this model-line until a little later this month, but we're hoping that we can have this series ready to release/ship by the end of June, but I don't want to promise this until I have all the details ironed out, so figure a little later to be safe.

If you're interested in this new series and want to reserve yours, keep an eye out here and we'll open up pre-orders in the next couple of weeks - [on a select number of units!!]. Just like the Typhoon, don't hang back and dilly-dally or you'll loose out on the opportunity to save some cheese on these ... these "will" sell-out very fast. Please don't say we didn't warn you when it happens ...

Post any comments, reviews or questions you have here and we'll try to get them answered ASAP.

Hope you enjoy!

Alex

http://knifekits.com/kknews/ddr3-5.jpg
http://knifekits.com/kknews/ddr3-7.jpg
http://knifekits.com/kknews/ddr3-6.jpg
http://knifekits.com/kknews/ddr3-1.jpg
http://knifekits.com/kknews/ddr3-2.jpg
http://knifekits.com/kknews/ddr3-3.jpg
http://knifekits.com/kknews/ddr3-4.jpg

Oh____MAN!!!!

What a great knife. Really looks like a sharper/newer/better version, while still keeping the overall lines that have made the prior models so appealig. Darrel--YOU DONE GOOD!! :D

I love the workmanship on this pre-production model. Nice tapering scales. Great job!

Thanks Alex for the temptation fulfilment! Count me in!

Coop

Very handsome folder!

That'll certainly make for a nice change of pace...Gee look at all that handle real-estate...lots of room for embellishment fun :D

Hmmm, interesting treatment you used on the scales...looks like something Coop might have done...is the master now getting ideas from the students? :p

I do like the way the bolsters slightly extend above and below the blade...gives it a little bit more of a custom look IMHO...

Looks like one of Darrel's "EZ-Thumber" thumb studs...is that what you'll have on the final, or was that just for this proto...

Looking forward to checking it out...

You guys do understand that there's only so many hours in a day? ;) ;)\

Dennis greenbaum

Yeah Baby!:smokin

Coop Dennis
Thanks for the kind words.

As for the handles there is no taper.
This is the way I do all my knives of this style with carbon.
It is an optical illusion.
I do taper thick materials like walrus and stag.
When you round the top of the knife where the curve starts downward toward the back of the handles it becomes thicker in the rear by physics. Nothing special here.

The thumbers that will come on the knife will be taller and sharp rings.
This way you all can do your magic to make the knife open easy.

The backsacers for this knife will have a stepped bushing for a cute look and to give max space in the handle.

The other model will have straight angle bolsters and a more traditional blade.
You can mix and match bolster and blades !
4 knives....
A very nice backspine will be available. A handle making template for the curvy bolster!
The blades will be satin finished... like the sg4

Darrel-

I realize this is just a prototype...

I'd like to see the back of the blade on top come squared off, so that it could have the potential ability to line up with the backspine. That way a filework pattern could near-seamlessly continue from the spine onto the blade. (This is a bothersome visual problem for me on the GX6 where there's a sizeable dropoff from the spine to the blade...what can I say, I get anal about that sort of thing). I can't quite tell from these pics, but but it looks slightly rounded at the back end of the blade...preventing a clean connect with the spine.

While on the subject, is it possible for the stop pin to drop ever-so-slightly to allow just enough clearance for the backspine to come over the top and have contact with the back of the blade? In the pics it look mighty close to the top of the liner's edge.

Sorry for being so picky...

Thanks,

Dennis Greenabum

Yeah baby!:smokin

Something we failed to mention ...

It will come pre-drilled under the scale in the rear for a thong hole, if desired.

Alex

Cool...this is the right size knife for a nice braided thong...

Darrel-

Let me qualify what I suggested a minute ago...

I think you've done an amazing job with these kits...and that they can't possibly be all things to all people. I realize that you are also faced with production limitations.

I know that if you were making one of these from scratch as a custom knife, and had planned on fileworking the backspine and having the pattern continue over onto the blade, then you would of course design it accordingly. So I don't mean to suggest that you should make some change to the design just for this one type of embellishment approach that I happen to like.

I just figured on the old adage..."If you don't ask, you don't get...";)

Thanks.

Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah Baby!:smokin

As I was waiting for the last Pic to load, I was thinking that the gap and height difference from the backspacer to stop pin to blade was better than the DDR II. I haven't resolved this issue on mine II yet and I noticed the rounded step on the III seemed to undo the improvement somewhat.

As for Dennis, Anything that slows him down only makes him better. So I now expect him to raise the bar again, he is an going to inspire us all again soon, most likely by first matching the backspacer end to make the gap symmetrical then look out. I can't wait to see what comes from him next.

I think a III just made the top of my wish list.

Paul-

Thanks for that very large compliment...

I've said it over and over and over...every mistake, every problem, forces me to come up with a solution which I feel always winds up with my making a better-looking knife...not to mention more learning experiences in the process. I think I secretly look forward to the challenge.

I started back to work full time last week* so I don't have nearly the same kind of time to devote to my knifemaking...but I still put every spare minute into it. I started a new GX6 a couple of weeks ago, and getting ramped up for the new job has caused me to have to start-stop-start-stop on this knife. Well today I went at it all out.

In some ways it's one of my most challenging designs yet, otherwise I'd be done by now. With new ideas, come new problems...anyway, I've been at it all day almost non-stop and now it's about 3:00am sunday morning :rolleyes:

I just finished one side of the handle and most of the components of the other side are completed...I can tell you that this is going to be a pretty cool knife IMHO ;)

I expect to have it done sometime tomorrow (Sunday) and of course will post pics...

I need to get this off my bench soon, as I have to fill one more order for a good customer... and then I can get ready for all the cool new stuff that's coming...GX6 Interframes, Typhoon, DDR111,:cool: :cool: :D

And somewhere in there I'm trying to log some time practicing grinding my own blades...

There's just not enough hours in the day!

Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah Baby!:smokin

* FYI- After having to regretfully shut down my vitamin company, I took a few months to chill and get my head back on straight...the knifemaking helped immeasurably. Now I'm back at my previous (very successful) profession representing high-end Graphic Design/Multi-media companies. This time it's a "collective" of three firms, all with different but complimentary capabilities. .. Including some very cutting edge interactive technologies. I had forgotten how much I enjoy being around all the creative "young bucks"...There's about 2 dozen under one roof and PS...They all went nuts over my knives...:p

Folks
The way the back of the blade is designed fills several manufacturing requirements. Also if it's sharp at the back of the blade I loose design space in the knife (mechanics) and a big harry sharp edge hanging out when the knife is closed. My rules of design do not allow for a bad looking knife closed at this time in the closed position. This also creates a sharp edge when you grab for the knife closed.
I also do not like big bulky bolsters hanging down in the front bottom of the knife. UGLY... and bad blade width to handle ratio are not acceptable. The knife will look like an old fashion slip joint.
Smooth flowing lines open and closed are the ticket. If the bolster is longer at the bottom of the front the blade is not centered in the open position ... YIKES that's ugly! Old school! NO thanks!
Choosing between the two Ill take the better blade to handle to give up the gap between the back and the blade. At this time I have the whole knife maxed out in blade width and blade length.
Im sure this dilemma can be handled with all the talent that is running around in this forum. Think man Think!

I hope you understand my explanation about the optical illusion created when you round a knife flat with a curve in the rear.
The more you round the top of the knife handle the more apparent this thicker at the rear look is. I just rounded this knife more at the top ...
The look I was going for in this model is semi tactical every day carry. Add a clip and shazam you're good to go.
The carbon is the same thickness as the bolster to start.
To taper the bolster smaller to make the carbon thicker causes many extra problems when you're finished like screws sticking up above the bolster. They have to be re counterbored etc.
You can add a liner under the carbon to offset this problem but I wanted a clean and simple looking knife.
When you use thicker material like stag and walrus tapering in much easier. The taper is not so much that it causes these extra problems if the material is thicker than the bolster to start with.

The potential for a stylish art knife is huge on this knife with the pallet space and the cool backspacers that will be on this knife.

I feel more liner file work needs to be addressed. Yes it's much harder. It is small and tedious. But once you get that look started and learn how to do it (small liner file work) the look becomes endless.
Also more bolster file work and embellishment are a good way to go.
I feel this knife in walrus or ivory would be an extreme hit.
Then I would most likely rope file work the whole knife face bolster and all. Haven't seen this from you folks yet.
The rope the backspine outside and inside, and liners all the way around.
It may take more than a Saturday to complete a knife like this..
Maybe three!
How about adding machine turned liners that are mirror polished first?
I also left enough space to remove the thumber and have a slotted opener on this knife for those who want a hole in the blade for opening. It will take some work but it can be done.
I also designed holes in the blade moving away from the thumber in the blade for those who like that look. You can do this yourself with a few carbide spade drill of different sizes.
The satin finish on the blade can be converted into a horizontal satin finish much easier than a bead blast finish also.
Another nice feature is that the whole knife can be covered with one handle material if you wish.
How about adding a rear bolster?
So much to do that hasn't been done!

Dennis,
Good luck, if you put half the effort into your job as you put into your knives, I know you will do well.

I know what it's like, I have been laid off 4 times in the last 5 years, finially went "low tech" and got into the railroad working in their communications department. Had to take a secong shift position with Thursday & Friday off but I work(not very hard) inside and the pay and bennies are good. Trouble is I have a 3.75 hour round trip train commute to NYC.

The bad thing is I haven't adjusted to the schedule yet and knives are taking a back seat right now. The good thing is the Boss man dosen't mind if I work on my own stuff, Just a little testy with blades on the train. Tonight I'm laying out my first guard for one thats been on the book for a while.

Darrel-

Thanks for taking the time with that super, informative response. Although I'm a very long way from being even close to appreciating what it's like to be a designer of your caliber, it's clear you have strong design sensibilities and it shows in everything you do. Hey, if you didn't you would never have attained your status as one of the world's foremost knife designers.

I guess you've offered a more than subtle hint that although it's in the lineup, you're not a big fan of the EV4N1, (so far, the only folder kit not designed by you-I know this was part of the early-on concept...bringing in other designers). With it's big, bulky bolsters hanging down in the front bottom of the knife, it's pretty obvious that this was not a design that came off your bench. But for us, variety is a good thing, and I do appreciate your putting it in the original lineup... I guess that's why there are so many flavors out there...;)

For what it's worth I don't much care for ithe EV with the original "skinner" blade shape...when combined with those oversize bolsters it does look as you would say "ugly." Since it was in the KnifeKit's lineup I thought I'd try it anyway... and discovered early on, almost by accident, that when I trimmed a good bit off the top of the blade (in effect turning it into a clip point), the bolsters took on a different feel...And a lucky benefit, is that the back of the blade is able to align with the spines I make. (See my "Desert Flame"). I'm currrently using it as my EDC, and people get pretty impressed when they see the "S" pattern filework "jump" across onto the blade...that's why I'm always on the lookout for another model with which to replicate that effect.

Having said all that, I think I've already figured out a way to accomplish my wish and have a seamless spine/blade hook-up on the new DDR-3. Send one my way and I'll be more than happy to test my theory :D

----------------------------------------------------------

I very much appreciate all of your numerous embellishment suggestions...it's always an education getting an inside look at how your (very experienced) designer's mind works! It just so happens I'm close to finishing up a GX6 which already includes one of those ideas :p As soon as I'm done in the next day or so, I'll get pics up.

Thanks again for all the cool input.

Paul- Isn't it a bummer how work has to get in the way of our knifemaking? :lol

Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah Baby!:smokin

PS. Not trying to show off, but I thought for all those newbies not all that familiar with the potential of the EV4N1, I thought I'd drag out pics of my "Desert Flame"...my apologies to all who've seen these before...
http://a8.cpimg.com/image/82/56/12525698-ff99-01D4015F-.jpg

Here's the "S" pattern jumping across the spine to the blade...this is not an easy effect to pull off...takes at least a couple of hours of "finessing"...(Check out Dwayne Dushane's website sometime...and his "S" patterns...you can't tell where the spine stops and the blade starts)
http://a9.cpimg.com/image/83/56/12525699-2546-01D4015F-.jpg

My oh My.....things just get better all the time.

It is clear to me, and bear in mind that I have only just started with these kitknives and I don't do this for the money as I give them away as gifts, that I am going to become broke fast.

I guess this may change soon as the first GPC1000 I did generated an offer of $100 from the first person I showed it to. And that one wasn't elaborate at all.

I've already bought 9 folders (and 1 fixed blade) in the last 4 weeks, and no doubt that this will be on my list as well when the ordering opens.

I tend to share some of Dennis' concerns. However, as Darrel mentions, this just adds more to what/how these knives can be embellished. It certainly going to give some of us a few headaches....but I can't wait.


Great looking knife Darrel.

Dennis,
Thanks for the kind words.
Sometimes there has to be a trade off.
Ev was not of my conception.
I'm sure there could have been alterations made to make it more ergo!

You have dealt with this design quite well.

The top of the ddr3 can be ground off to make it a smooth transition into the blade also. I just looked at it and came up with an idea to take care of you blade stop area.
Look at the ear on top of the bolster at the stop area.
Make a piece that fits in there to the spine! That will cover up the pin and blade back. !!!!:D
I have to try to think of as many possibilities as possible for all that want to modify the knife to there liking.
There is a lanyard hole for those who want them on the ddr3.
The tail can be moved on the ddr3 also, on the top of the knife.
You can grind past the lanyard to make a whole new look!
The thing about designing a kit is that it has to be mainstream.
It has to me modifiable in many respects and acceptable in the standard form.

The thing I am getting at in the post above is that the backspin is not the only place on a knife to file work and make cool embellishments. Just think the pearl knife you did IMHO has outshined any knife you ever did.
Carving the face of the knife has four times the impact in my opinion.
There is nothing like what you did to that knife in the world.
It is original.
I just feel we are missing the good areas to make an impression.
The backspine is such a small area. There is a whole knife left for cool ideas to hatch and be done. The backspine is a good starting point.

I feel the gpc and the gx6 would be so unique with just a rope file work on the face all the way down the knife ?
Then how about coming back the other way with the rope at 45 degrees and making it a quilted to checkered pattern?
UM UM!
Go look at some of Joe Kious's work. This is a good hint.
How about some gold wire inlay? Or pearl pieces in the backspine? Has anyone converted one of these knives to an um um auto?

The ddr3 will have the room in the bolster area needed to make that transition. :eek: I dont know how to do it but you may? :evil

I also want to say that my art ideas now days are different than they once were a few years back. I like making a few art pieces a year. That is enough to satisfy my inter artist.
Most of the embellishments I have done on past projects. To me the thrill is gone unless I can do a one of a kind that is all mine.
So going into the black hole of art knife concept 6 times a year is enough for me.


March on with new ideas. !!!!:D

Darrel-

I think you're absolutely right about expanding embellishment ideas...If nothing else these kits are an incredible testing ground for new ideas such as those you suggest. As much as I truly want to start making my own blades, I keep getting sidetracked with new embellishment ideas that simply don't want to wait for my bladegrinding ability to get up to snuff. :rolleyes:

The experience I had with the Carved MOP GX6 has got me thinking "out of the box" even more than before...

I had a long talk with Joe Kious at the ECCKS show in NY...(By the way, he's pretty impressed with the kits as a training ground...and he sure had some mighty nice things to say about my MOP GX :D )

The new folder book has a mini tutorial on gold wire inlay that got my juices going pretty good...As if I didn't already have enough ideas spinning around in my head, that book has me really going crazy with all the various tutorials and incredible embellishment ideas! (For those interested, Tim Herman's selling this awesome book...Just send him an e-mail...If you order one, don't forget to ask that he autograph his section of the book).

Darrel, I think you're going to be very pleased with the new GX6 I'm near finishing... Coincidently it happens to address one or two of the things you mentioned above...I'm going to try and get it done by end of today and get pics posted.

Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah Baby!:smokin

PS. Regarding the "Fix" for the backspine treatment...For me the simplest way would be to make my own backspine and have it extend over the top of the stop pin, that's the way I did the EV shown above. There's not a whole lot of clearance from the stop pin to the edge of the liners...forcing the need for a dangerously thin portion of the backspine to not only cover the stop pin, but at the same time it has to still be thick enough to withstand carving the continued filework pattern.

But I think I might have a whole different solution...I'll have to try it out when I get my hands on the DDR-3 ;)

Dennis,
Try a backspine that is rasied above the back of the knife and then rounded (full) or slightly. This will give you more room.

Maybe I'll try one of those "dorsal fins" backspines that Tim Herman's got on that incredible new "Marlin Sliver" folder of his (Display Case)8o :cool: :D

I saw it at the show...Totally flipped me out!...At one point it's probably raised just over 1/4" off the back.

That would pretty wild, putting one of those on a kit folder ...(if I could even pull it off) ...now that's some kind of filework! ;)

Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah Baby!:smokin

Dennis,
My Idea is to remove the stop pin and make the backspacer double as the stop. Would require hardening the spacer, carefull triming to "time" the stop and maybe adding an extra screw to hold the front of the spacer. At the least you reduce the transition to one gap.

Darrel,
Thank for your explanation, We don't mean to have you build to our specs. I agree with your sense of design. We just want our cake and eat it too.

My DDR II won't have bolsters and will have full length, thicker scales, that are made for these old tired hands. The more I hold this small knife and play with it, the more I like the general design. I'm building the first one for me and keeping it. I don't care if anyone likes it or not.

Hey Paul,
Not a problem...

You can build the full backspine just extend it and drill and ream for a 1/16 dowell in the front to stabilize it. I think the liner screws will hold it together?
Yes it will have to be handened. Mayby use 440c then torch the tip where the blade and backspine meet. ;)

I'm still waiting for Dennis to work over a DDR1. What's with the leapfrogging? You have to earn your wings on the DDR3, man! ;) he he he!

Lots of great info in this thread. Thanks guys.

Coop

I couldn't really tell you why, but the DDR-1 has never done much to rev my jets...If I'm not enthused than the results will reflect that. Early on I had a thing going for the DDR-2...still do. The GPC is OK,...and you know I dig the EV for a variety of reasons...but I've got it bad for the GX6.

I love the GX's dagger-style blade, and I get a lot of handle real estate in a small, easy-to-carry folder...For whatever reasons, the GX6 just keeps on inspiring me to explore new embellishment ideas.

The one I'm currently working on has proven to be a bit of a challenge...more than I expected, and I like it that way!:D
I thought I'd be finished by last night but got hung up on an interesting problem with how to incorporate some NIckel/Silver filework...Then there was all the etching and heat-coloring ;) ...and I haven't even gotten to the backspine yet! If I wanted I could probably proclaim it finished as is, but I want to take this a little more over the top...All I know is, I left it out on the kitchen table last night for Michelle (wife) and Piper (daughter) to offer their opinions...to say they were enthusiastic is an understatement...

I promise to have it up in the next couple of days.

Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah Baby!:smokin

PS. I'm sorry Coop, I got a little sidetracked there...did you say something about the DDR-1? :lol

Dennis ...

You're killing me with the suspense. Let's see the thing! :-)

Alex

OK Alex-

Now that you've twisted my arm...

Although I still consider it a work in progress, just for you ;) I'll take a couple of quick pics tonight when I get home from the office, and get them posted here.


Dennis Greenbaum

Yeah baby!:smokin

Dennis,

Can't wait, but I'll probably hate you.

I've been carrying that DDR II around assembled since the first of the year. Just put the parts together and centered the blade. I'm very happy with the overall fit, the lock timing was 99.999% right out of the box.

Finally know how I want it, now if I can just get some shop time.

i like this one. lots of interesting possibilities!

Having trouble with the fl 001 kit. No matter what I try I cant get the lock to work it fails the back spine test every time no matter what. The blade does not fit the lock correctly the angle is way off.Or the liners are to thin to hold thr blade in the lock position .It acts like a slippie. Any help would be appreciated. I know this is not a DDR-3 question but it would not let me start a new thread. Before i forget to mention assemble right out of the box .