View Full Version : Help!!


jethro
01-28-2003, 10:23 AM
I just recieved my order of bone scales for two knives that I have to make. Both sets have one good scale and one that has a large void on the back side that will show on the edge of my blade. How do you fix this? I wasn't planning on using bolsters on these knives, but I don't know how to get the back side of the scales flat....

Thanks in advance for all your help. You guys are the greatest!.

Mike

Ray Rogers
01-28-2003, 12:52 PM
Hopefully, there is some extra material on the scales that will need to be trimmed off. Take the extra material and sand it into dust. Mix the dust with epoxy and make a paste - make sure its stays very liquid. Then, fill the void with the paste. If you get the mix right it should look very much like the rest of the bone and the void will disappear....

GANNMADE
01-29-2003, 08:08 PM
A SHEET OF COARSE SANDPAPER ON A FLAT SURFACE
WILL GET IT FLAT AND NOT TAKE TOO MUCH OFF.
IF NEED BE GO TO A PET STORE AND GET A BONE
THAT YOU THINK YOU CAN GET A SLAB OUT OF.
I HAVE MADE KNIFE HANDLES FROM THESE BONES FROM
PET STORES AFEW TIME .THEY WORK OUT WELL:)

jethro
01-30-2003, 08:29 AM
I am afraid that sanding it flat will not get this out. I purchased two sets and one of each has an area at one end that is about 1/8" deep x 5/8 - 3/4 wide. I could take the good one from each set and make one good set, but I need to make two knives.

Ray, is there any specific type of epoxy that I should use. I have been using the 5 min. stuff on my handles, should I get a slower setting stuff for this?

Mike

Ray Rogers
01-30-2003, 09:35 AM
I can't recommend using the 5 minute stuff on knife handles at all really. It seems to be too brittle and not as water/chemical resistant as I would want it to be. I use it when I find a tiny pin hole that needs to be filled in a wood or bone handle but that's about it. The Devcon 2-ton epoxy is much better for general use and will a gap as large as you describe I think I'd go with that.

While we're on the subject of glue, even the 2-ton stuff isn't the best. The absolute best I've used is the epoxy that K&G Finishing has manufactured under their own name. It's incredibly strong and totally resists water. The bad news is that it isn't as easy to use as the 2-ton because you have to mix it yourself and it has to be mixed by weight. I use a small postage scale for that. Also, this glue is cream colored instead of clear so it's not as useful for filling gaps invisibly as the clear glue would be.

Brownells' AcraGlass is also great stuff and very similar to the K&G product from what I hear...........

jethro
01-30-2003, 10:47 AM
Thanks Ray. I have been using micarta for the working knives that I have made. I have attatched them with 5 min. epoxy using the brass screws that have a shoulder on them. They really seem to hold the handles on well. But these two that I am working on now are going to be pinned on with mosaic pins. I definitly do not want them comming off.

Is it normal for bone scales to come like this? I was really disapointed to see these large voids on these scales.. but I guess that a knife without obstacles wouldn't be any fun would it!

Mike

Ray Rogers
01-30-2003, 12:27 PM
I can't say it's 'normal' but it isn't uncommon for bone scales to have that void area. It comes from cutting slabs from bones that aren't large enough in diameter. That void is where they cut into the marrow of the bone to get the slab.

Where epoxy is concerned, remember that the purpose of using glue in a knife handle is not structural. In other words, it's main job is not holding that handle on the knife. That's what bolts and pins are for. The glue helps some with that, of course, but it's major purpose is to form a moisture barrier so that water cannot get under the scale or inside the handle where it can work against the steel to rust it or rot some handle materials. That is why you want to most water resistant epoxy you can get, especially with natural handle materials ...........

whv
01-30-2003, 06:59 PM
mike -
.
unless time is a major issue with this project, i think that i would place a phone order for another set of scales. that way you could probably explain your need to a person and hopefully get something workable. then save the ones that are unsuitable for a future project which can utilize shorter scales after you cut off the junk.
.
one more idea for glue: west system epoxies (http://www.westsystem.com/). this stuff is used to build boats, airplanes and automobiles. talk about water resistant and strong! one of the nicest things is that the mixture is regulated by the dispenser pumps so you don't have to mess with weighing the stuff.

Chris Daigle
01-30-2003, 08:59 PM
Wayne knows what he speaks of. West Systems is some good stuff as far as water proofing goes. I've used it for fiberglass lay-up with good results. Funny, I had yet to think of it for knife handle application though. :confused: The pumps make it idiot proof.

Chris

jethro
01-31-2003, 08:29 AM
You guys are great! My granddad builds ultra-lights (... crazy old coot!...) and has some really good epoxys for that. I think that I will sneak over and measure some up for these. Now that I think about it, he is such a packrat, maybe I can find something for some exotic handles. I know he has some carbon fiber just laying around...

Mike

Gary Mulkey
01-31-2003, 09:16 AM
Mike,

You might go to Pet's Warehouse for your bone and cut your own scales. Go to the chew toy area and you should be able to find cow bone that will make scales (they have one type that is clean & white). Look through the selection for those with the thickest bone that is not too small in diameter. When you get them home, cut them into scales and scrap out any marrow. Then put them into a solution of water, soap & bleach overnight. To dry, place them in the microwave on defrost for ten minute intervals and take out for the same amount of time. Sometimes you may have to repeat this one or two times.

I have used this bone many times with good results. Good luck.

Gary