View Full Version : Pouch sheath lining -> Help


David Peterson
12-20-2002, 01:28 PM
Hello all,
I'm trying to make a pouch sheath for a hunter style knife, but had a few questions about lining it with pigskin. In one of the tutorials I was reading, they cut out the leather, folded it, stitched it, then wet the sheath down and formed it to the knife. I have always wet the leather first and formed it to the knife, then stitched. Am I doing it the hard way? Then I was wondering if I could cut a piece of leather to shape, glue the lining in place, stitch, then wet it down and form. Will the glued-in lining survive the water bath or will it come apart? I'll be using barge cement.

The next part of this sheath question is the Rare Earth magnet I want to add to the sheath. How do you keep it in place? Do you use barge cement or epoxy?

Thanks,
-Dave

Don Cowles
12-20-2002, 05:39 PM
Dave, I use barge cement on the magnets, and do not wet-form lined sheaths. I would experiment with wet forming the sheath, let it dry, and then see if you can glue in the lining and get a good fit. Might be tough, though.

Using lighter weight leather is important if you are going to line the sheath.

If it's for a big knife, you will need a bigger magnet, and that presents its own problems, like grabbing the refrigerator when you walk by, erasing your credit cards or hard drive, and messing up your pacemaker. Be careful!

Chuck Burrows
12-20-2002, 10:11 PM
Don's right about using THIN (1 1/2-2oz max) leather for lining.
As long as you use Barge or any other good contact cement and let it dry for at least 12 hours wetting the lining won't hurt a thing.

When I do a lined pouch sheath (or gun holster for that matter), I make the outer shell just slightly over-sized size i.e. leave a little extra to the outside of your stitch line. Put a coat of glue about 1" either side of the center fold line your shell and then LIGHTLY dampen the the outside of the shell. Fold it over until the edges touch, but make sure you don't glue it together, you want a U shape at this point. Now put a matching 2" wide strip of glue down the center of your lining (I usually make my liner about 1" bigger all around than the shell.)
Spread the "lips" of the shell apart to open it up but keep the u shape at the fold. Fold the lining in half and CAREFULLY match up the glue strips. After this is done glue the remaining lining to the rest of the shell - do one side at a time (To keep the liner and shell separated until the glue gets to the correct tacky state, I use a couple of small clamps as weights to hold the liner back away from the shell). Once the liner is all glued in leave the sheath alone for a couple of hours (I usually set aside overnight). Then with a sharp knife trim to match the shell. Now glue the front to the back (including your welt) and trim or sand the edges evenly. Sew it all up. Edge trim and burnish lightly with just water and a rub stick. Leave for 12 hours again to let the glue set completely and then dampen the shell and mold it to the knife. You don't want the leather real wet, just damp enough to take a good set. I usually dampen the leather and then stick it in a plastic bag for an hour to get the right consistency.
The pre-bending helps eliminate any wrinkles or creases at the fold.
It sounds harder than it really is. Practice on some scrap until you feel comfortable.

Chuck

David Peterson
12-23-2002, 09:24 PM
Thanks guys. I'm looking forward to trying some of these techniques. I have some chrome tanned pigskin that I'm going to practice on, until the veg stuff comes in. The Leather Factory's website was giving me fits today trying to order, so I'm going to call them tomorrow. Merry Christmas.

-Dave